Ask and Thou Shall Receive

It seems we were wind bound in Pukaskwa National Park more days than we paddled. Moderate to strong winds were forecasted on a daily basis. Our soon to be permanent residence was at the mouth of the North Swallow River. It was a nice place to be wind bound. The campsite had an outhouse (a luxury for us), a small waterfall only a short hike from the campsite and a beautiful fine white sand beach. It was the campsite that marked the southern tip of the coastal hiking trail so a boat carrying hikers would come to shore every couple of days.
After two wind bound days and no outside human contact of any kind, I longed for some company. Jon, who could be considered more introverted loved the solitude. I, on the other hand, am an extrovert and was slowly going a little crazy. My partial insanity could also be blamed due to the lack of chocolate confection on the expedition. I craved to sink my teeth into a chocolate bar! We kept ourselves busy with photography, hiking, swimming and writing. My cravings for company and chocolate were satisfied one glorious evening when we spotted the aluminum boat off in the horizon disappearing into the trough of the waves as they came into the beach. Hikers walked off the boat and we spent the evening sharing a campfire with them. As we watched the sunset we were surprised to see two kayakers appear in the distance. They came ashore and once they had set up camp came to join us by the fire. To my utmost delight, one of the kayakers was carrying with him three x-large chocolate bars. Beautiful scenery, good company and yummy chocolate - a perfect combination.

History is for the Pits!

After spending a few rest days at Naturally Superior Adventures, Jon and I paddled into one of the most remote sections of our journey this year - Pukaskwa National Park. Pink and grey hills line the coastline intermittent periodically by fine sand and cobble stone beaches. Due to the topography of the area, highway 17 was built around this section of the shoreline so the only way to see it is by hiking, paddling or boating. Our camera beckoned us to take pictures around ever corner. In every direction, the views were stunning. Pukaskwa’s trance was upon us. Our pace slowed and we enjoyed every moment. We swam under waterfalls, hiked up rolling hills and searched the park for one of its greatest mysteries - Pukaskwa pits.
Generally found on the highest terrace of beaches, Pukaskwa pits are depressions in the cobblestone that are usually of a round or oblong shape. Normally a couple meters across by a meter deep, these pits can also be as large as the foundation of a building. Constructed by the Ojibway people, the oldest of the pits are thought to be 10,000 years old with the most recent being 500 years old. Although they are not strictly found within the boundaries of Pukaskwa National Park, the highest concentration of these historical mysteries are located here. The curiosity surrounding Pukaskwa pits remains in their intended use. Were they used to catch fish, provide shelter, or spiritual guidance during vision quests? No one knows.

A Thief in Lake Superior Provincial Park!

At the southern tip of Lake Superior Provincial Park in the Agawa Bay Campgroud, the park attendant warned us about bear sightings around the park, especially around Rhyolite Cove. Jonathan and I decided to stay far away from this tent site to avoid any confrontations. During our visit, we had a sort of confrontation with a particular animal. No, it wasn't with a bear but with a well-fed chipmunk. At one of our favorite campsites on the Bald Head River, this chipmunk would not leave us alone. If I took out our pots for cooking, the chipmunk was right by my side. As we cooked, one of us would have to hold onto our food and make sure it never touched the ground. One morning, while we were busy taking pictures, we accidentally left our granola bars on the top of our food barrels. While our backs were turned the other way, the eager chipmunk jumped onto our food barrels taking one of the granola bars. By the time we had turned around, it was too late. The package had been opened and the little thief was munching away. Being a good sport, he let us take his picture before we reclaimed our stolen goods.
The coastline through the park was absolutely spectacular. Large rugged cliffs and beaches dot the shoreline. We have just reached the Naturally Superior Adventures on the Michipicoten River in Wawa, Ontario where we left another food drop. It was nice to spend the day here - great food, friends, paddling and scenery.

Paddling through the Recreational Sault Locks

It was interesting to paddle into Sault Ste. Marie because it will be one of the largest ports that we will experience on this leg of the journey. It was nice to be in Sault Ste. Marie because we lived here while we were students at Sault College in the Parks and Outdoor Recreation program. This time, we stayed with our friends, Dave and Jen, and picked up another package of dehydrated food which we sent ahead to their house.
The following morning we entered the Sault Canal National Historic Park recreational locks. It was an incredible experience. We paddled through large gates which were closed behind us. The attendant told us to hold onto large ropes and to make sure keep our boat away from the edge of the locks. In less than 15 minutes the water rose to meet Lake Superior. As the gates opened, both Jon and I were excited and, at the same time, hesitant to paddle the next section of our journey. Our excitement came from the stunning and remote scenery that lay ahead and our hesitation stemmed from the tremendous respect we have for Lake Superior - the largest fresh water lake in the world.

Modern-Day Pterodactyls

One of our food re-supply locations was at the North Channel Yacht Club in Spragge, Ontario. We enjoyed a comfortable bed on my dad's sailboat and the luxury of a hot shower at the comfort station. The following afternoon, my parents and grandma came with a box of dehydrated food and a selection of mouth-watering dishes that we can only dream about on trip. It was sad to see our dog, Tess, leave with them but we knew that it was the best decision for her. She prefers her lazy boy chair at my parents place than the blue foam pad at the bottom of our canoe.
It took us four days to paddle to Sault Ste. Marie averaging a distance of 40 to 50 kilometers per day. We were surprised at the amount of bird life that we encountered. Bald eagles, golden eagles, osprey and turkey vultures were spotted almost on a daily basis. Around the Mississagi River Delta, we noticed a group of our favorite birds - Sandhill Cranes. Jon and I call these birds Modern-day Pterodactyls because they remind us of ancient creatures that would have roamed the earth millions of years ago. The way they fly and their calls seem like no other birds that we have encountered on the northern shore of the Great Lakes.

Tessie's Trip Journal (A Dog's Perspective)

My parents are two humans who love to canoe and camp. They have taken me on many trips, and this time we are on the North Channel of Lake Huron. I enjoy camping, however, the canoeing is not always to my liking because I'm not particularly fond of the water. My parents keep me safe by putting on my Salus doggie PFD (Personal Floatation Device) which I'm happy to wear. One day the waves were a little too rough for my little stomach and when we got to shore I threw up. My mom and dad try their best to make my time in the canoe as comfortable as possible. They put down a nice foam pad for me to sit on and create a little space for me in the canoe but it's not up to my usual standards of comfort at home - a lazy boy chair. The tent, on the other hand, is something I look forward to all day long. When I smell the tent bag being pulled out from where it is stowed in the canoe, I wag my tail and watch anxiously as it's being set up. I love being on shore because there are so many things to play with. So far I have chased cormorants, mallards, squirrels and chipmunks. The only animal I wasn't allowed to chase was a porcupine - I didn't understand why. I have also become the official dishwasher on trip - my favourite job. I've had the pleasure of tasting bits of leftover pasta, pad thai, soups and puddings. We have just landed at the North Channel Yacht Club where I will be heading back with my grandparents to go on a summer vacation in Sudbury. I've enjoyed paddling out here, but this puppy is pooched.

A Porcupine is Eating our Canoe!

It's two-thirty in the morning and Tess, our dog, is walking anxiously around inside the tent. She can hear a rustling outside. Half awake, Jon and I try to calm her down, but to no avail. We try to fall back to sleep when we hear something trampling on the deck of our canoe. With his headlamp on, Jon climbs out of the tent to see what's outside. To his surprise, a big fat porcupine is sitting on the stern of our canoe gnawing at our wooden gunwales and deck plate. From inside the tent, Tess and I could hear a loud clap and Jon shouting, "Stop eating our canoe!" The porcupine abandoned his project and scurried up a tree. We examined our canoe and found there was minimal damage - a few chew marks in the gunwales and spray deck. The rest of the night we dozed in and out of sleep waiting for the return of the porcupine. Luckily he didn't return. We expect he found something better to chew.

Where I Learned to Paddle

The North Channel of Lake Huron is one of my favourite places to paddle as well as the site where I took my first few canoe strokes. This is where I caught, what I call, the paddling bug - it infected me with my love of canoeing and kayaking. The first boat I learned to paddle was a 36 ft. voyageur canoe. I learned these skills at Camp Manitou, an Anglican Church camp that I attended as a youth, and later as a counselor. We had a chance to stop in at Camp Manitou in the middle of Senior Girls' camp. The girls and the staff were just heading on an outtrip and we had a chance to talk to them about our journeys by canoe. They had so many good questions to ask us, however, the funniest question was, "Do you guys have massive pipes?" We were treated to dinner that evening and I had a good time reminiscing about happy times at camp. We would like to thank Camp Manitou for their warm hospitality and send off.

The Friendly Bay

The southern stretch of Georgian Bay allowed us the experience of paddling in more developed and populated areas - a new experience for us both. We enjoyed the luxuries that few experience on canoe trips such as a visit to our favorite Swiss restaurant, the Alphorn, and a relaxing night in a soft bed at Balm Beach Resort. We were amazed at the friendliness we experienced along the way. Little treats such as homemade muffins, strawberry jam, cupcakes, cookies, grilled cheese sandwiches, and wine were given to us and helped to add to our dehydrated tripping menu. Many provincial and private park staff along the journey commented, "We’ve never had campers arrive by canoe!" It seemed that traveling by canoe, Canada’s historical mode of transport, was fairly unheard of in this region. We understood why when some nights we had to pull out our tent in quite populated spaces. It was interesting to see the large beaches of Nottawasaga Bay, home to the largest freshwater beach in the world, and to visit the historical Brebeuf Island lighthouse (100+years) where the one of the Great Lakes Coast Guard stations exists.
We are happy to have completed Georgian Bay, a total of 600 kilometers. We are now heading back to Killarney to start our tour of the North Channel and St. Mary's River.

Breaking Fifty

During the winter, in preparation for our upcoming paddling season, Jonathan and I spent some time pouring over nautical charts and topographic maps. Looking forward to paddling the coastline of Georgian Bay, we stumbled upon a roadblock - the Meaford Tank Range. Indicated on our nautical chart was a seventeen kilometer by two kilometer boating restriction zone. It would be difficult for us to paddle so far from shore for that length of time on such an exposed part of the coast. After contacting the Meaford Tank Range, we were given special permission to pass through the restricted zone due to the nature of our expedition. We were told specifically not to land unless it was a serious emergency because of the possibility of unexploded ordinates lying on the shore. We couldn’t even land to go to the washroom. To add to our distress, the distance between campsites, from Owen Sound to Meaford, was fifty kilometers – a distance we hadn’t yet accomplished in a day. Jon and I chose a calm day to make the trek. The coastline along the Meaford Tank Range was absolutely spectacular with large clay banks spreading themselves into the surrounding water. We surprised ourselves by paddling an average of 6.5 kilometers per hour which helped us get to our campsite earlier than expected. The Meaford Memorial Park was a great place to stay with a large sandy beach and friendly neighbours to share stories with.

Familiar Waters

To complete Georgain Bay, Jon and I needed to come back to Wiarton (the place I injured my back) and paddle back to Honey Harbour. This part of the journey required much more planning as it is more developed and there are fewer places to camp. In less than two days, we managed to paddle from Wiarton to Owen Sound with a stop at Presqu'ile YMCA Rotary Youth Camp - the summer camp where Jonathan use to be the assistant director. The staff made us feel welcome as we enjoyed sharing dinner and campfire with everyone. We paddled into Owen Sound (Jon's hometown) to celebrate Canada Day! It is very nice to see many familiar faces who have stopped to visit with us.

Killarney's Famous Fish and Chips

En route to Killarney, we paddled past Phillip Edward Island - one of the larger islands in the region. The vistas in the area were spectacular because the LaCloche Mountain Range appeared in the background. This chain of hills is over 2 billion years old and is composed of pearl-colored quartzite.
The day was relatively calm however, the winds started to pick up in the afternoon. As we rounded the last stretch into Killarney, the winds picked up even more and we were caught in the midst of confused seas. We were tossed around a bit by the reflection waves reverberating off the shoreline. Normally, Jon and I would head into a safe cove or the lee of an island but Killarney's famous fish and chip stand was calling us. My parents and our dog Tess came to share the well deserved feast with us. For now, it's back to Wiarton to complete our final leg of Georgian Bay.

Eggspectations

Oatmeal seemed like the logical choice for breakfast on a canoe trip - it's light, packable and as grandma would say, "It sticks to your ribs." I like oatmeal but, after eating it for a few weeks, I wasn't stomaching the idea that it was the perfect breakfast food. I tried to make the oatmeal more appetizing by adding dried cranberries, blueberries, mango, raisins, almonds or peanut butter however, it still tasted like the same old oatmeal. What I really wanted for breakfast was eggs. Every morning my thoughts turned to omelet's, eggs Benedict or toad-in-the-hole. It didn't help that we had to paddle through a cluster of islands called the chickens. After paddling 40 kilometers one day, Jon and I stopped for a break at Hen Island. To our surprise and complete irony, one egg, brown in colour, was lying in the water on the sand beside our canoe. I picked up the egg and it appeared roughly the same size as a chicken's egg. We couldn't identify what type of bird could have laid such and egg or how old it was. I wanted to crack it open into a hot sizzling pan but my heart prevented me from doing so. I placed the egg into some low lying bushes and we paddled away. The next morning, to my dismay, we ate oatmeal yet again.

Toilet Paper Flowers

Since venturing from Parry Sound, Jon and I have been encountering fewer cottages and many more camping spots. One of the most beautiful sites was on an island close to the Naiscoot river. We spent much of our time on the island exploring the intricately swirled geological formations of the rocks. To our dissappointment, this beautiful spot was left in a mess. Broken glass bottles, aluminum cans and plastic jugs were left in the fire pit, numerous branches from trees were cut down and a string of toilet paper flowers were left in a little trench on the island. We were both quite disgusted. Both Jon and I try our best to be low impact campers - we pack out what we've packed in. That means that any garbage, food waste and toilet paper is taken out. Often, if there is no fire ban in effect, Jon and I will burn our toilet paper in a small burning can. As campers, it is important to respect our environment. Take only pictures, leave only footprints.

Too Close for Comfort

Since our departure from Honey Harbour, Georgian Bay’s scenery has been absolutely stunning. Smooth pink granite islands, tall windswept pines and crystal clear blue water highlights the scene. Georgian Bay is also home to eleven reptiles at risk, including the Eastern Massasauga Rattlesnake - a feature of the bay that I hoped only to observe from afar. One morning, while paddling through a maze of small islands, I spotted, less than 10ft. from the bow of our canoe, what looked like a Massasauga Rattlesnake swimming across the channel. Jon, wanting to capture the reptile on video camera, urged me to paddle closer. Noticing our approach, the snake lifted its head out of the water and turned swimming defensively towards the canoe. With less than a foot between the snake and I, I was left with two options: I could stay calm and push it away with my paddle if need be or panic, scream and jump out of the bow seat into the middle of the canoe. I chose the latter option. The snake, knowing full well that he had the upper hand in the confrontation, turned in the opposite direction towards shore. We watched as the snake climbed out of the water and to our surprise and relief, the snake had no rattle. Jon and I later found out that the snake we observed was the Eastern Foxsnake, also included on Ontario’s list of species at risk. Although unsettling at times, we feel privileged to have these types of close encounters.

Parry Sound - Fries!!!

We are in Parry Sound today after some of the best paddling weather that we have seen so far. The water has been calm, the wind light and the sun bright! We came into Parry Sound today to get some supplies, drop off some garbage and get a good take-out of sandwiches and fries! Cold drinks are tasting really good today. Thanks to the folks at White Squall for the help sorting out some of our trip glitches. We couldn't do it with out you! Although we have passed some very busy and populated spots between Honey Harbour and Parry Sound, we have been able to find fantastic camping spots that are convenient and have great swimming. The water is still cold, about 10 C but that is still warmer than the 3 C when we started in Tobermory! Stephanie has been taking it easy and her back is feeling better, but it is still a little stiff. We are happy that we made the decision to do this part of the route as she is continuing to return to 100%. There have been lots of good yoga rocks for stretching and laying down. Soon we will be back in full form for the remainder of the summer!

Back on the Water!!!

After weeks of recovery, Steph is now ready to return to the water. We have had to make many adjustments to our packing and our route to accommodate shorter days and more frequent camping spots. We will be completing the Honey Harbour to Killarney leg of the journey over the next few weeks as we ease back into paddling. The goal is to take it easy so Steph does not re-injure her back! We are looking forward to gliding over the clear waters of Georgian Bay and continue pursuing our Dreams!

Temporarily Out of Order

The weather was calm around Wiarton, so Jon and I decided that it would be a great chance to try to paddle 40 kilometers to our next designated campsite. Early that morning we started to load our boats and, as I was lifting the last bit of heavy equipment into the canoe, I strained my back. The mid section of my back throbbed with pain - it hurt to move, sit, stand and breath. We tried to paddle, I lasted only about half a kilometer. Tears rolled down my cheeks, not because of the pain, but because I felt I had disappointed everyone - Jon, family, friends, supporters and, worst of all, myself. We decided that it was best to take some time off to heal. My parents brought us back home where I visited the doctor and chiropractor, relaxed in a comfy bed and stretched my aching back muscles. Jon also had some marks on his shoulders from carrying heavy packs, so we decided to cut back some of our food suppliers and carry them in smaller waterproof containers. I’m getting better everyday and we are anxious to dip our paddles back into the waters of Georgian Bay.

Lost Pigeons

After a few days of cold weather and long stretches of paddling, we welcomed the sight of our friends cottage. Mike and Sue, the owners of Adventure Guide, invited us to spend the night. Sue made homemade chocolate chip cookies and their children, Jonathan and Ben, entertained us with many stories of their own. It was a little taste of luxury - a nice bed, a warm shower and omelettes for breakfast.
That evening we paddled into Cape Crocker Indian Tent and Trailer Park. Cape Crocker, in the late 1800's, was infamous for having hordes of passenger pigeons migrate through the area. Although they could reproduce quickly, the fate of this bird was short lived. By the early 1900's, widespread hunting lead to their disappearance. That night, tucked into my sleeping bag, I thought about how passenger pigeons were taken for granted - a bird so plentiful it was believed that they would never become extinct. My mind also drifted to thoughts of how we, as North Americans, often take freshwater for granted. As I pondered, in the darkness of the night, I hoped that somehow we have learned from the story of the passenger pigeon and that the future of this precious freshwater resource, the Great Lakes, will not fall into the same fate.

Wild Horses

There are so many things to see along the shoreline of the Bruce Peninsula - the spectacular Niagara Escarpment, eerie shipwrecks, playful waterfowl and, to our surprise, white snow! It’s the middle of May and a few shoreline caves along the escarpment still contain remnants of winter - a testament of the cold temperatures that still prevail on this part of Lake Huron. One morning, dressed in our down jackets and huddled around our VHF radio, the weather announcer said, "water temperature 3°C (37°F), air temperature 4°C (39°F)."
This week, Jon and I have been getting accustomed to the sounds of the night. At 3:30 a.m., Jon woke up after hearing some noise just outside of our tent. I could hear it too. To me, it sounded like horses hooves stomping the ground. "What do you think it is, Steph? Could it be a deer?," Jon questioned. Too tired from the previous day to make any sense of the situation, I responded, "It must be wild horses." To this day, any noises we hear outside of the tent, Jon teases - "Must be wild horses!"

Sometimes Plans Change for the Best

Last week, we decided to take a few more days to prepare for the expedition. This past weekend, we travelled to Tobermory to do some preliminary filming as well as meet with family (our food drop support crew). The 'Tip-of-the-Bruce' is so beautiful and the water so cold. So cold, that Tess has decided to go on a holiday with her grandparents instead of the canoe trip. She will join us later this summer when the water is warmer. The small delay has only increased our excitement and we are now anxious to get on the water. All ready to go, we will be departing Tobermory on Thursday, May 17th.

Departure Delayed

The last of our gear arrived today - just in time for the expedition. We could finally experience the joy of canoe Tetris. Our game started off with a 19ft. canoe, two paddlers, a dog and too much gear. To our dismay, we just couldn't fit it all in the finite space between the gunwales. After about two hours, the game quickly became a chore as we paired down extra gear and food. We have had to repack all our food and rethink our food drops. Due to this, and other life circumstances that are beyond our control, our departure, slated for May 12, will be delayed for a few days. It is our goal to be safely on the water as soon as possible.

Website Up and Spray Deck Installed!!!

Big thanks go out today to all the people that have helped get our website online today. Jeff, Andrew and Brian were key to the design and publication of the site. Thank you all. Another Thanks to Jordan, who helped with the scary task of drilling our new boat to install our new, custom made Northwater Spray Deck. It was a nerve wracking experience, but it looks great! We will test it soon! We are now ready to get on the water.

Last Day of Work - Thank You Adventure Guide!

Today was our last day of work at Adventure Guide. This weekend was spent at Laurel Creek where the store held the annual 'Paddle Extravaganza'. We had the canoe out for people to see and to spread the word about our expedition (Thanks Mark and 105.3 KOOL FM!). Thank you to everyone that stopped by and talked to us, it is wonderful to know there is excitement and interest in this endeavour. Please follow along as we keep this site updated as often as possible.

Now we have until Friday morning to get all the last minute details together!

Departure Set For May 12, 2007

With less and less time remaining before our departure from Tobermory on May 12, things are starting to get a little crazy. We finally have all the major pieces of equipment that we need to start this expedition. Now it is a matter of working through all the last minute details in the weeks and days leading up to our first day on the water.